Hi, the top adapter is not needed, it is very easy to cut the backing at the end of the strap to allow it to go through the tope mounting hole.
The main reason I kept it as separate parts is layer adhesion. All of the pulling pressure on the headset is going to rely on that tiny knob. The more you use it, the more stresses there will be on it. Eventually it will snap.
If you are confident enough that the layer adhesion is strong enough to take it and you dont tighten your headset so much to have issues, then feel free to do it, but note that its done on purpose.
@NickDBaker the idea is to not damage or glue anything on the DAS and have it still reusable.
Though it could probably be printed in sideways position (or upwards, depending on the point of view) with supports, so the layers would be in different directions.
OR the knob could be reinforced with a 4mm screw.
Supports will do it, when doing it sideways, however to make it easier to print on any printer and waste less plastic having it separate is still the most efficient way of doing it. You’ll also print faster.
Also considering that the side hinges still make the DAS too long and requiring more padding, I do have a plan for both the side hinges and the revisit of the top hinge, that has to be redesigned anyway.
Agreed that printing it that way is not ideal.
Yes theres probably surprisingly lot of torque and stress on that little knob. I would, if I was going to, do it with a reinforcing screw, easy to 3d a hole for the screw and for the hexagonal nut.
Print it in ABS and vapor smooth it with acetone. That way the layers remelt and you get incredible rigidity.
You can also do that, but like with any other vapor smoothing you have to mess around with chemicals.
You could also rebake the print in an oven, but for vapor smoothing or reheating both you rely too much on luck not deforming the print too much as you want to avoid deformation of the print.
This after all small part precision mechanics, not just your regular print. The DAS connector has a tolerance of 0.05mm, both reheating and vapor smoothing warps the print too much for that (especially if you want to remelt the layer lines, otherwise its not doing much). Too much and you wont have a fit and risk damaging the connector on the DAS, while too little and the connector doesnt work.
Again, simpler just to keep things separated and use the right materials from the get go.
I love the smell of acetone and warm ABS.
Anyway, you can get a nice finish on ABS by dipping it quickly in acetone, or by vapors, like thoemse said. It will fuse the layers together, but just the outer shell, so in the end I’m not sure if its going to reinforce the part that much.
Could be tested withweights and zipties. that’s atleast what I did when I did the original design and checked for materials.
If you fear warping you do not have to use vapor. Something I do with my radio controled planes is simply brushing the print with acetone. If done right you get no warping. Just a little bit of acetone on the crucial part (the knob) should strenghen it by quite a bit.
I am curious though, could you do some tests? I havent seen many tests regarding the subject of part strength after acetone paint vs smoothing vs stock abs for layer adhesion.
The smallest diameter of the pegs is ~5.2mm, meaning surface area is about ~21.65 mm2 for layer adhesion.
Horizontal PETG print did 15 kg no issue, didn’t test it further since I saw no point, ABS horizontally would hit the same if not better result. Since I took the layer direction to account at the very start, I did not make alternative designs.
With ABS though my main fear is its hardness damaging the DAS joint which also is presumably ABS which is brittle but hard and strong in nature, which is why I went with PETG instead as detailed in my thread regarding the subject.
I will do this weekend , out of curiosity, if I have the time.
The way I designed it, the knob isn’t the only thing holding the strap in. The indentation on the outer ring also holds the DAS.
We might only need the side pieces you made and combine them with the top piece menithal already made or as another user suggested, skip the top piece and somehow thread the top strap directly through the hold on the top of the pimax. Dr. Cube, would you mind posting the side brackets on thingiverse?
I’ll try and submit it today after work. I’d like to make one more revision to it where the hook hinge is a bit closer so you can tighten the head strap a little bit more.
Alright, made a shorter version and tested them by playing a few rounds in Creed. For me personally, I still can’t get the strap super tight on my face and I can’t make the adapters any shorter. So I tested them with a hat on and they hold up well.
You can get the print files for both the longer and shorter version here:
If your heads too small like mine you can get some 20mm foam replaces from here:
I gave your version a try using the short adapters, but ran into a couple of issues:
- The hinge on the side adapter doesn’t seem to reach around far enough to stay attached to the headset correctly. Extending the hinge lip would resolve it, and the rest of the adapter fits nicely.
- The top adapter wouldn’t lock into place, and the adapter snapped off with little force because of how thin the hooking part is connected. The top part of the top adapter also wouldn’t fit through the strap hole.
Hmm interesting, The side adapters should stay secured once you put the face plate back on. I’ll try and edit the top adapter. May need to bite the bullet and make it out of two parts.
Updated my post here Pimax + Vive DAS 3d Printed Adapter Parts
Question: how did you remove the original side attachments that have the curvey bit?
Just press (from the mask side outward) and it pops out.
@Dr.Cube Thank you so much for your files. Did 4 prints today for my two DAS and all snapped in perfectly and i can not imagine how the pimax deluxe strap could be any better. Beside for smal heads…