The complete guide to adding Vive DAS speakers to the SMAS

ok thanks i use a fan and sometimes i have a little more noise going on than maybe typical so i experimented a bit with it and the volume level now is almost deafeing i have game setting volume level set to half and steam vr set to about 76. Glad to here that you have enough volume as is. As more people receive their 8kX’s i think we will see others trying various things for audio solution.

Looking for more reviews to come in hopefully soon :slightly_smiling_face:

Sorry i’m asking. Can you start a new thread. I’ve been trying to figure out a way to lock the twist axis on my swivel chair and can’t think of anything for years.

Unfortunately, there is nothing useful to share there. No matter how hard I tightened the clamps, the swivel still worked. In frustration I even tried to drill a nut to the telescope column but all that achieved was a major hydraulic spill (never occurred to me there must be something inside that makes the telescope work). I eventually gave up and built a proper simrig instead.

Btw, I’ve seen someone hook the armrests to their desk to fight the swivel but I haven’t tried that.

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oh jeez, that was a terrible idea. people have had their arse’s blown to smithereens from exploding hydraulics. no no no…you are so lucky you weren’t hurt.

If we can figure something out, i’m sure we would have a kickstarter campaign on our hands

love it, i’m in the process of building something similar myself.

Designed a spacer thanks to OP comprehended info with all the measurements, I have no SMAS myself so couldn’t test the print, but my guess is that it should work fine.

CAD: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/b3e32eca7aebaccfff4c0d56/w/464613ab8c134811df59b763/e/7e6bd90121eeab5076947b79

Feel free to print & share results, thanks

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The center is not exactly circular and purely going with the image, the center hole will need to be bigger.
Unfortunately I don’t have access to a 3D printer, so I cannot test this.


On your image the widest part looks like about 5.8mm, I did the hole equals to 6mm, guess should be enough

Ah, great.
Let me point out one more thing that might not have been clear from the pictures - there is this little black knob that also protrudes into the washer space. That would also need to be considered - this serves as a latch to allow rotation of the speaker. The most ideal solution would be to leave a circular groove for this, but that might be difficult to engineer…

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@Teigue needs to open a Pimax modding shop and sell these things!

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If you open it in STL viewer by clicking the link on bottom side it has rectangular pocket, it’s for this prong, I can do a segment or ring but the whole spacer also can rotate I guess

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I’m going to perform this mod tonight. It really sucks having such an awesome headset with such terrible sound. I’ll hit up the hardware store to see what I can find.

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I completed the mod last night using @Teigue spacer. The sound upgrade is well worth it. One caveat…The screws that the DAS come with are relatively short, so it is almost impossible to get everything lined up with the spacer so that you can screw everything in. I actually had to sand the 3D printed spacer down a tiny bit so that I could get the screw to hit home, and even then it took me many tries. Maybe the spacer could be ever so slightly shorter, but @Teigue did a great job with the design! Props to both him and @Milopapa !

thanks for feedback, I have no idea what I did, just used measurements from @Milopapa but glad that it worked, even if that needed sanding a bit. Can you please share photos & do a picture to illustrate what, how much & where we need to adjust the part so I can re upload it & mark thingeverse as finished project. If possible also post a make there so other users will be much more confident in using this

Another option to 3d printing a spacer is to use some of the foam on the lid of the 8kx box. Cut it off with a utility knife, shape it a little so it’s round, and then cut to length. Really easy and cheap alternative. The foam gives it just enough support so it doesn’t wobble but still allows it to rotate.

Hard to say exactly how much to take off. I sanded off maybe a millimeter or two? Not much at all. Just enough so that it was slightly easier for the screw to connect with the other side. I got one side to work without sanding but it was a real struggle. If we are calling this side the “front” then I took 1-2mm I would guess off of the back. Honestly it worked perfectly other than that and was very well designed.

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Also, here are some pictures of the headset with all of my mods. Vive audio, VR and Chill fans, apache strap, VRmust face foam taped to the original thin foam for extra padding and distance and VRmust prescription lens inserts, 1lb counterweight. I’m using a dogleash pully system and Club3D 3m displayport extension for the cords. The second cable is a USB cable to power the fans since I don’t want to power it off of the headset and potentially effect tracking.

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lol nicely done,unbelievable what we must do to get the comfort right on this expensive 8kx… its a pitty because the image is realy good(exept for the mura)

Agree, but for me at least it is actually really comfortable and the audio is good after all of this trouble. I like tinkering too, so I’m up for mods, but it is a shame that I can’t just tell a friend to go out and buy an 8KX as is.

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thanks for feedback,

So it was

10mm

I reduced it to 8.5mm

Updated thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4591146

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